If you’ve never been to Athens — or if you haven’t been recently — you’ll discover that this ancient seat of world culture has quite the new spring in its step; credit its fresh, bouncing vibe to its center-of-the-universe role as host of the 2004 Summer Olympics. Sure, a few years have gone by since then, but the reverberations are still felt (and will be, we surmise, for a very, very long time to come). In a decade’s worth of preparation for hosting the Olympics, city fathers (and mothers too) spearheaded massive upgrades, repairs and refurbishments.
Buildings that were once dingy dirty gray are being painted in cheerful shades of yellow, green and orange. Public squares have been pedestrianized (you won’t recognize the now lovely Syntagma Square, with its lush trees and peaceful spots for repose; traffic used to course through this space). Sidewalks have been repaved and are now quite walkable (still narrow, though), and concrete stripping was inserted to assist the physically disabled.
There are new roads, the subways and trains are near-spotless, classic hotels like the Bretagne got major facelifts, and cafes are flourishing throughout the city. There are swank new digs for designer ateliers, ranging from Hermes to Dolce and Gabbana, in what more recently were decrepit old buildings. And the arts and crafts scene is flourishing with fabulous original, largely Greek-owned boutiques and galleries.
But here’s the thing that put joy in my step on a recent visit here (my first since the pre-Olympic era): In all its general zest for improvements, Athens has managed to retain the soul of its ancient heritage. It has held on to treasures classic and just … old, from antiquities to its Victorian-era food market. All are worth exploring.
The Grecian capital city has long been known for its role in the 5th and 4th centuries B.C. as the seat of the world’s art, culture and history, and so much of it is here, on display. This era is called the golden age, and the city’s general spiffing up has included such storied monuments as the Acropolis, the Parthenon, the temple of Athena Nike and the Odeon of Herod Atticus, along with the very significant museums housing so many pieces of Athens’ golden age. This idyllic time period didn’t last forever — the Roman Empire gobbled the city up in 146 B.C. — but no matter, now. The city, one of the world’s most fascinating in both a historic and contemporary context, offers a marvelous opportunity to walk in the footsteps of ancient Grecian legends, while at the same time celebrating what, despite normal urban stresses, reflects a modern city with a sense of soul.
And lest you think that Athens is some kind of museum to ancient Greece, well, it’s more than that. There is much history of the more recent era that began when Greece became independent from the Turks in 1829, and which has developed in spurts and starts ever since.
What to See
Athens is a city of neighborhoods all pretty much centered on the Acropolis and the Parthenon. Start at Syntagma Square, and from there, wander into its neighborhoods — of particular interest to visitors are Plaka, Kolonaki, Athens Central and Varvakios.
Athens Central
In a nutshell, the center of Athens is host not only to the city’s most ancient treasures but also very much part of its contemporary life — with locals thronging its shops and restaurants (the University of Athens is located here as well).
The Acropolis: At 2,400 years old, the Parthenon is the largest Doric temple ever completed in Greece, and the only one built completely (apart from its wooden roof) of Pentelic marble. Built to house the giant statue of Athena commissioned by Pericles, it also served as the treasury for the tribute money that had been moved from Delos. Hint: Arrive here when it opens at 8 a.m., and you’ll have it to yourself. The Theatre of Dionysos is the second theater erected on the southeastern slope of the Acropolis — the first was made of timber in the 6th century B.C. Reconstructed in stone and marble by Lycurgus between 342 and 326 B.C., the theater once seated 17,000. Of the original 64 tiers of seats, about 20 tiers still survive. The Roman Forum (Agora) was the happening place back in the day where one could hear Socrates expounding his philosophy or St. Paul converting the market goers to Christianity. And the Temple of Hephaestus, on the western edge of the Agora, dates from 449 B.C. and is the best-preserved Doric temple in Greece. To the northeast of the temple are the foundations of the Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios, one of the places where Socrates spoke to the masses.
Other key historic sites include the Agora Market, once the centerpiece of ancient Athens’ city life; today it is a mix of ruins and museums. The National Archeological Museum is an Athens showplace, known for its premier collection of art from eras such as the Minoan, Cycladic and Mycenaean, among others.
Plaka
The oldest part of Athens (save for the Acropolis!) is the Plaka, a neighborhood of many identities. Its winding, narrow streets are lined with houses and shops that date back to the 5th century B.C. Over the last 170 years, Athens has been forever changing. Currently, many buildings are in the process of refurbishment and are painted in colorful shades. Cafes and restaurants abound — many are quite touristic tavernas, but are great stops for a quick refueling.
Kolonaki
The Byzantine and Christian Museum is in an 1848 Ilisia mansion that once belonged to the Duchess of Placentia. The collections show the course of Greek art from the 4th to the 19th century. One of the most important exhibits here is the sculptural group showing Orpheus from the 4th century.
The Benaki Museum is housed in founder Emmanuel Benaki’s neo-Classical mansion. Its collections include icons, Greek costumes and a room from an 18th-century northern Greek house.
The Museum of Cycladic Art, located two blocks from the Byzantine Museum and the War Museum, is dedicated to the promotion and study of the ancient and pre-historic Greek art of the Cycladic Islands — Nicholas and Dolly Goulandris’ personal collection.
In ancient times, pine-covered slopes jam-packed with wolves surrounded Lykavetos. These days, there are no wolves, but it does offer the finest panoramic views in Athens including the surrounding mountains and the islands of Salamis and Aegina. You can walk the path to the summit from the top of Loukianou or take the funicular from the top of Ploutarhou. This is the place for the Chapel of Agios Giorgios — at night, it takes on a fairy tale aura from the dramatic backlighting.
Varrakios
The neighborhood surrounding the Kotsa Plaza is a “locals” part of the city — it’s also the sight of some ancient ruins, including coffins that were mistakenly dug up by developers who were then required to stop digging. (The coffins were just left there.) The plaza itself has lovely lush gardens.
Outside Athens
Head to Corinth, located 55 miles from Athens. Corinth was a significant gateway to the Peloponnese; there’s a more modern city and an ancient city (the latter is the one to explore). Take note of the Corinth Canal — some smaller cruise ships still transit through there. Other sites to see include the Archeological Museum, which features Corinthian artifacts, and the surviving structures of ancient Corinth, including the Temple of Apollo and the Roman Agora.
Sounion, about 45 miles from Athens, is home to the majestic (and classical) Temple of Poseidon, open daily from 10 a.m. until sunset.
Astir Beach, about 40 minutes from Athens, fronts the Aegean Sea on what is dubbed the “Aegean Riviera.”
Where to Eat
You will never go hungry in Athens. From Michelin-starred restaurants to traditional tavernas, the local dining scene offers tastes to suit all budgets. Fresh-caught seafood, grilled lamb, tangy feta cheese and flaky baklava are best enjoyed from Athens’ many sunny sidewalk tables. When looking for a place for dinner, keep in mind that Greeks dine late (think 9 or 10 p.m.), and that many restaurants will not take credit cards.
For taverna-style dining, head to Plaka. Admittedly touristy, one good choice is Taverna Zorbas. Eden (at Misicleos and Lissiou) is a good vegetarian option.
In central Athens, Ideal is the place where the local hoi polloi lunch; on our visit, my Grecian pal pointed out such celebrities as an actress in a comedy sitcom, a bank president, a famous Bouzouki singer and a newscaster. The food is a mixture of Greek specialties (the meatballs in a spicy tomato sauce zinged with ouzo were delicious, as are the grape leaves stuffed with meat and rice) and “continental” ones (pasta carbonara). Reservations are recommended.
It doesn’t come cheap, but Varoulko offers some of the finest and freshest seafood in Athens — complete with a fabulous view of the Acropolis from the rooftop terrace. Reservations are essential.
Offering a modern twist on the traditional Greek taverna, Mamacas is an Athenian favorite. The feta is fresh, the decor is chic and the waiters are almost impossibly attractive — what’s not to love?
Snack food, a variety of sodas, water and fresh orange juice are available at the Acropolis located in front of the ticket office prior to entrance into the site. Water and such cannot be purchased once inside; however, books and postcards are available to purchase at the front entrance next to the theater and at the small museum.
Where to Stay
Like the rest of the city, hotels in Athens got quite a boost in the run-up to the 2004 Olympic Games. Many older hotels were renovated during this period, while stylish new hotels sprung up around the city. There’s now a wonderful range of accommodations here, from grand old luxury hotels to intimate B&B’s. Summer is high season, and advance reservations are highly recommended. Luckily for budget travelers, Athens is still quite affordable when compared to other European capital cities, and it’s not hard to find a good room at a reasonable rate.
Athens’ most famous grand hotel, the Grande Bretagne, has been gorgeously refurbished; ask for a balcony with a view of the Parthenon. The hotel oozes Old World style and features a terrific rooftop restaurant, work-out facilities and grand decor.
For great atmosphere, try the AVA Hotel, which has a fantastic location in the Plaka. Even better, the rates are moderate, rooms are well appointed, suites have verandahs and accommodations at the front of the hotel have views of the Acropolis.
The Hilton Athens has an excellent location in the heart of the city, complete with views of the Acropolis; we also like its rooftop bar, spacious rooms with high-speed Internet access, and lovely swimming pool (it’s the largest hotel pool in the city).
Owned by an artist (whose paintings grace the walls), Franceska’s Home is a small B&B tucked away in a pretty residential neighborhood within walking distance of the Plaka. Rooms are small but charming, and the garden is a gem.
Traveling on a shoestring? The family-run Hotel Cecil has a terrific location near Plaka and clean, stylish rooms.
Where to Shop
In Athens, a sales tax (VAT) of 19 percent is tacked on to almost every purchase; however, if you spend 117 euros or more at participating stores, you can get the VAT refunded (with some exceptions). Siestas, beginning at 2 or 3 p.m., are still fairly common here. Shoppers should be aware that many shops (except for the most touristy) will open from 9:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., close for siesta, then reopen for a couple of hours at 5:30 p.m. (Times vary, of course.) Designer olive oil and locally made organic honey are wonderful gifts for friends and family at home, as is a bottle of ouzo, the licorice-flavored liquor that’s a Greek treasure (at 92 proof, it’s not for the faint of heart).
Check out Ermou Street (off of Syntagma Square), a car-free outdoor walkway lined with Greek and European shops. Nearby is the Paddas building (Venizelov and Voukourestiou), an ancient building that’s been gorgeously refurbished. Beyond Cartier and Dolce and Gabbana, favorites here include Folli Follie, a Greek chain of boutiques selling fabulously whimsical handbags, and Balli for Cuban cigars. It also hosts Attica, the Macy’s of Greece and a good place to pick up any essentials you have forgotten to pack.
Wander the outskirts of Plaka and browse in its antique shops (look for Karaeskaki Street) in an area called Psiri. Don’t miss the antique-laden square, chock-full of dealers selling new, old and custom-designed furniture and tchotchkes by day. By late evening the old buildings have been refitted for restaurant and bouzouki-music-filled nights.
Simply wandering the narrow streets of Kolonaki will yield bountiful finds, but Skoufa offers some lovely shops, such as Fresh Line (10 Skoufa), which sells a colossal sweep of soaps sliced from big blocks as though they were cheese (the strawberries-and-cream soap contains real berries, and soap for sensitive skin is made with vanilla, milk and rice). There are numerous clothing boutiques on the same block, but the best shopping results from simply wandering around the narrow neighborhood streets. We also found a fabulous Beautyworks, which sells Kiehl’s beauty products and lovely English Penhaligon bath suds and lotions. Keep an eye out for utterly unique galleries and boutiques.
Food enthusiasts should check out the central market area of Athens. Primary fascinations include a sprawling food market, where the stalls of meat wrap around the outside (and if you’ve never seen a lamb with its head still on or a rabbit with its head off but bobtail protruding, well, it’ll make you a vegetarian in a heartbeat!). The market, which is huge, also features seafood, such as squid in all its glory (a Grecian pal told me you just boil it in its own juices and serve), organic honey, small-batch olive oil and chickens (with heads and beaks still on). Fruits and vegetables are displayed by vendors in another building across the street. An intriguing conundrum to this seemingly Victorian-era place is the flat-screen televisions, courtesy of the Korean LG, that hang off the ceiling and are tuned to Greek news channels. Beyond the food market are numerous places to shop for those in search of flea market type stuff — cheap T-shirts, etc. There’s even a shop that sells pet chipmunks (the babies are darling and quite energetic!).
Greece@FriendsTravel.com
Chances are good that you will arrive after a long ferry trip from Athens. The main port at Athinios will take you to Thira, the island’s capital. Thira, and the smaller town of Oia, offer the visitor the culture of Greece, quaint hotels, a wide variety of shopping experiences and great dining all set on the edge of a volcano from which one can sit for hours and enjoy the view. Oia’s port is easily accessible from the town and surrounded by sea food dining and taverns. After a meal, the traveler can return to the top of the hill by donkey.
